Your Pet

Canine Neutering

Neutering is the term used to refer to the removal of an animal’s reproductive parts. This term is non gender specific.

Females (Bitches)

The removal of the female reproductive organs in mammals is referred to as an ovariohysterectomy (“ovario” refers to the ovaries and “hyst” refers to the uterus (womb), “ectomy” is the general term used for “removal of”). More commonly this is referred to as a “spey”.

Speying of bitches is a routine operation, which prevents seasons and pregnancy. It is regarded as the most effective and safest method of bitch control. The operation can be performed through a small incision and we find that bitches recover remarkably quickly. We normally prefer to spey bitches 3 months after their first season, when the operation is less traumatic for the animal. This policy also greatly reduces the risk of mammary tumours (breast cancer) later in life. We normally only keep your dog in for one day, although very occasionally we keep her in overnight following the procedure.

She will have a pre operative health check before the operation which will either be a few days before, or on the morning of the procedure.

Advantages

• The surest method of birth control, stopping unwanted puppies
• Prevents the bitch having to be kept separate from other dogs for 3 weeks every six months
• Removes the risk of bitches running away in search of a mate, which can lead to road accidents and / or lost dogs
• Prevents “false” pregnancy, causing behavioural problems after a season
• Prevents serious problems with ovaries (cancers) and uterus (pyometra – uterine infection) and greatly reduces the risk of mammary tumours

Disadvanages

• It is a surgical procedure and as with all surgical procedures, there is a small element of risk
• Weight gain can be common after speying due to the change in hormone levels. It is important that she is not overweight at the time of speying so this risk can be reduced
• In some breeds of dogs, there is an association between speying too young and incontinence problems later in life. Your veterinary surgeon can advise you on this

Males (Dogs)

Surgical removal of the testicles is referred to as “castration”. Castration can be a valuable means of reducing behavioural problems. However, it is by no means as reliable in dogs as it is in cats. It is unlikely that your dog’s personality will be adversely affected. These notes are for guidance purposes and specific cases should be discussed with your veterinary surgeon.

The dog is rendered incapable of fertilising a bitch after a few weeks. Mounting behaviour ceases in about 70% of dogs after castration. Territory marking (urination in the house etc..) stops in about 50% of dogs. Fighting other male dogs stops in about 60%. It often stops other dogs “picking” on your dog and starting fights. The tendency to roam is sometimes associated with “in season” bitches and castrating your male dog will remove his desire to find her. Castration can also help to stop aggression towards people.

Often, use of hormone treatments, either alone or in conjunction with castration, can be of more benefit. A hormonal injection can be given prior to the procedure to indicate how your dog will respond to castration.

The castrated dog requires less food than an equivalent entire male dog. Weight gain can easily be prevented by reducing the intake of food to 70%-90% of that required by an uncastrated dog. It is important also to include lots of exercise in your dog’s life.

Castration can be used to aid behavioural problems but must NEVER been seen as or used as a substitute for good training, handling and management.

Diet

The following information sheet is to provide you with basic information on the changing nutritional needs for puppies, pregnant and lactating female dogs, adult dogs before and after neutering and mature adult and senior dogs. For further information on canine nutrition, please call your local Greenwood Veterinary Clinic.

Canine Nutrition

The pet food industry has been developing at an enormous rate since the introduction of canine specific diets in the early 1980s. In that time, millions of pounds have been invested in the production of complete dog foods.

At Greenwood Veterinary Clinic, our members of staff are trained in the life-stage diets provided by Hill’s Pet Nutrition. Hill’s is one of the world leaders in Veterinary Nutrition and provide several diets to cater for not only healthy animals through each stage of heir life, but for animals requiring specialised nutritional care in times of illness or injury. The food that is provided for healthy animals throughout their lives is called Science Plan and is sold in all Greenwood Veterinary Clinic reception areas.

Life Stage Nutrition

Puppy

In the past dog foods were generalised and did not provide complete nutrition for the rapid rate at which puppies grow. As a result of this, it was necessary to add to them to rectify this deficiency. More recently, experts have tailored their research and are now creating these diets separately for the different nutritional requirements of each canine life stage. This pre-prepared and ready to eat BALANCED meal can be provided in minutes. In this fast moving day and age, it is a fantastic advancement. Gone are the days of needing to cook extra food and take extra time and money to ensure the health of your growing dog. A good quality puppy food and water will ensure that all your puppy’s nutritional needs are met. Research has been so in depth, that the differences between small, medium and large breed puppies has been investigated and has lead to the formulation of dry puppy food in Standard, “Mini Breed” and “Large Breed” Science Plan Puppy food also available in Canned formulation so that owners can continue with the feeding regimen that they are used to. An important point to remember when feeding your puppy is that the habits you encourage (or prohibit) at this age will remain with them for the rest of their life. A strict feeding regime for your puppy will prevent the chance of food stimulated behaviour problems, obesity and other related issues later in life.

Pregnancy

During pregnancy, bitches have an every changing nutritional requirement. As soon as the pregnancy is diagnosed, the bitch should be eating a puppy food. Small bitches should eat mini puppy but medium and large breed dogs should all be fed standard puppy food. The daily calorie intake should increase as the pregnancy develops (your veterinary or nursing staff will be able to assist you with amounts of food to be fed). This should continue until parturition (birth). Once the puppies are born, the bitches calorie requirement will still be high, supporting her body AND providing for her fast growing litter of puppies. During this time, she should still be eating the puppy food, but she should now be provided with unrestricted amounts of food. Only when the puppies are weaned and no longer feeding from the bitch, should a normal feeding regime re-commence.

Adult

Once a dog reaches approximately 1 year of age, they have completed their growth (though this age can slightly vary from breed to breed). The additional calories that had been previously provided for the rapidly growing body will no longer be required. Your fully grown dog is now ready to move on to an adult diet. The feeding of your dog at this stage will be similar to the regime you instigated when he or she was a puppy so the transition should be smooth. However, it is recommended that any diet change is carried out over a period of 7 days to prevent any physical or non compliance issues. Basically you are tricking the dog into thinking that you’re not REALLY changing the food! Science Plan Canine Adult food has one of the largest selections of flavours in the range. There are 4 flavours of dry food and three flavour of canned food that you can choose from to give your dog all the variety you wish. It is advisable to regularly check your dog’s bodyweight and body condition to ensure they are not gradually gaining weight. If at any point they do start to gain weight, double checking the daily feeding amount is recommended.

The nursing teams at all of our clinics will be able to advise you on the correct amount to feed your dog. The amount or type of adult food you feed your dog depends on several factors:

• Lifestyle It is common sense that the more calories you (or your dog ) uses, the more calories they need to consume. If you have a very active, working or training dog, you will have to monitor his or her body condition to ensure they are taking in enough calories
• Metabolic rate Dogs, like humans, all have different metabolic rates and it may be that your dog gains weight a little more easily. If this is the case, Science Plan have also provides an Adult Light food. This has less variety but it is by far the better option over having to put your dog on a diet later in life
• Neutering It is not a well known fact that neutering an animal will change his or her metabolic rate. It is important to monitor their feeding after the procedure with a view, if necessary to moving to the Adult Light food

Mature Adult (Senior)

As your dog reaches 7 years, he or she may be considered mature adult or senior (depending on breed). The feeding regime of both of these groups is different again from that of an adult dog. It goes without saying that older dogs will not exercise at the rate of a young adult, but also as the body begins to age, the metabolic rate begins a natural slow decline. This does mean that he or she will require less calories but the SOURCE of the calories is also a factor. Protein levels in senior dog diets are reduced. This prevents excessive intake which, in turn prevents related illnesses previously seen in older animals more commonly. Other nutrients and supplements are added to senior dog foods that allow your dog to remain physically as young as possible for as long as possible. We have learned from research by human nutrition experts that incorrect diet can reduce life expectancy, as well as increasing risk of weight related problems and can cause “normal” age related problems to occur at a far younger age. As part of our commitment to caring for your dog throughout his or her life, we recommend feeding which will enable your time together to be as long and as happy as it can possibly be. If you wish to discuss any aspect of your dog’s diet, please call your local Greenwood Veterinary Clinic. Further information about Hill’s Diet foods can be found at www.hillspet.com

Vaccination

At Greenwood Veterinary Clinic, we strongly believe in preventative treatment and advise you to regularly vaccinate your pet. Several diseases are included in the single inoculation; Canine Distemper, Hepatitis, Parvo-Virus, Para-Influenza and Leptospirosis. Additional vaccinations are available for Rabies and Kennel Cough. If you require further information on any of these diseases, please call your local Greenwood Veterinary Clinic. Puppies are usually vaccinated at 8 and 12 weeks, but it can be done later. This, along with yearly booster injections will immunise your pet against major viruses and infections contracted from coming into contact with other dogs. Puppies should be kept away from unvaccinated pets until one week after the second injection. Contact with vaccinated dogs has a reduced risk. For advice and information about vaccinating your pet please speak to your local Greenwood Veterinary Clinic.

Dental Disease in Dogs

The main dental problems seen in dogs are periodontal disease (mouth infection) and gingivitis (inflammation of the gum). Dental disease works in stages:

• Plaque builds up on the teeth when your dog eats and once a build up of plaque has accumulated, it becomes calcified to form tartar
• The build up of tartar causes irritation to the gums round the base of the teeth, creating gum inflammation (gingivitis)
• The gums then begin to recede, exposing roots, which will get them infected, this is called periodontal disease
• After this, the only possible next step is tooth loss, either naturally or by professional extraction

How do I know if my dog needs his/her teeth cleaned?

The most obvious way of telling if your dog has a build up of tartar on his/her teeth is by looking. Tartar appears as a light brown covering on the teeth. It more commonly starts on the molars (the teeth towards the back of the mouth) at the gum line. As more tartar develops, the rest of the teeth will be covered. Smell is also commonly a sign of a dental problem in your dog. Bad breath (halitosis) is often caused by the bacteria infecting your dog’s teeth and gums and once the affected teeth have been treated, the problem can resolve.

Does the diet I feed my dog affect the build up of tartar?

To a certain extent…. Yes. Canned or “wet” diets leave a residue of food on the teeth after eating and this causes a faster build up of plaque. This in turn starts the process of dental disease faster. Dry foods and dental chews do reduce the build up of plaque, due to the mechanical abrasive action of chewing them.

So what can I do?

There are many ways these days that you can care for your dog’s teeth.

Brushing – Brushing your dogs teeth every days is BY FAR the best way to prevent dental disease. Dogs can be trained to sit and have their teeth cleaned and owners that have managed to train their dogs to do this have found that it can be made into a game and an excellent way to bond with your dog. Starting the teeth cleaning process should be slow, the first stage is getting your dog used to you handling their muzzle. At times of relaxation, start by handling the head, stroking as you normally would and start to very gently handle the muzzle. You can then start working very slowly, going slightly further each day, aiming for them allowing you to lift their lip. They should let you do this without flinching or showing any signs of discomfort. Once you are able to lift your dogs lip, you can get a special tooth brush from your veterinary clinic. Begin by dipping the toothbrush in something our dog would like, their normal dinner or a meaty treat. Gently stroke the outside of the teeth while holding the mouth shut. This should be done for a very short period at first and should build up in time. With gentle persuasion and time, tooth brushing is a very realistic possibility.

POINTS TO REMEMBER

• Always follow tooth brushing time by something your dog will love such as play time or a walk
• NEVER use human toothbrushes or toothpastes. These are too harsh for dogs’ teeth
• Diet – As previously mentioned, feeding your dog a dry diet will help to slow the development of plaque. But also these days, the major food companies have developed specific diets to mechanically scrape the plaque and small levels of tartar off dog’s teeth. Hills Pet Nutrition have developed t/d, which has been recommended by the veterinary oral healthcare council to actively clean the teeth as your dog eats, and is an easy way to help prevent dental disease if your dog will not accept teeth cleaning
• Dental chews – There are a wide range of dental chews and chew toys on the market that are designed to help prevent dental disease in dogs. These are often impregnated with enzymes to breakdown plaque and can be effective if the correct product is used. Be aware when searching for the right chew for your dog to check the nutrient content of the chews, as companies can use high levels of fat or sugar to make the chews tasy!

What if my dog’s teeth need professional cleaning?

Dogs require a general anaesthetic to have their teeth cleaned. The process of teeth cleaning involves using an ultrasonic de-scaler (the same as your dentist does to clean your teeth) to crack the tartar and cause it to come away from the tooth. Any teeth that have areas of rot or holes to cause discomfort are extracted. We then smooth off the tooth surface by polishing to prevent further immediate build up of tartar. Your dog is provided with antibiotics and pain relief by injection and on occasion is given tablets to go home with after the procedure. Your dog will return to the clinic a few days after the procedure for a check up and as the mouth generally heals quickly this is often all that is needed. If you have any further questions or you are concerned about your dogs’ teeth, please call your local Greenwood Veterinary Clinic.

Lifestage Information for your dog.

Puppy (0-1 year)/New dog

Whether you are considering bringing a new puppy into your family, or introducing an older dog into your home environment, there are a lot of things to think about. We pride ourselves on our preventive healthcare programme; trying to avoid problems before they start.

Settling In

When your puppy first gets home, he or she may be daunted by the new surroundings. Try not to change too many things all at the same time; it is advisable to change the diet slowly (if required) over a period of 7 days to prevent an upset stomach. Pheromone sprays and electrical diffusers are available to ease this period of worry and any of our nursing staff will be able to advise you on the best use of these products. It is important to start socialising him or her with everything and everyone you can as soon as possible, but remember, puppies should not be walked on the ground or interacting with other dogs until 1 week after the second vaccination. As your puppy gains confidence, it must also learn it’s role within the family, and position in the hierarchy. While play and interaction is hugely important for the new member of the family, try to encourage chewing of toys and not human hands. Puppy bites are not too painful but remember, if your puppy bites you as part of a game, he or she could be learning that biting humans is part of play. This could lead to problems later in life.

Fleas and Worms

Puppies are susceptible to internal and external parasites and need to have adequate treatment protection. See Parasite Information Sheet for details of this.

Nutrition

In this stage of life, your dog will be growing rapidly. It is important to get the balance of feeding right to provide enough energy for growth, while not over feeding and causing a predisposition for obesity later in life. This is expanded on the diet information sheet.

Vet Visits

When you bring your puppy to the Veterinary Clinic, the Veterinary Surgeon will carry out a full health check. This can be done at the same time as the first vaccination, or separately (see vaccination information sheet for details of vaccination protocols). It can be a lot nicer for the puppy if the first experience at the Veterinary clinic does not include a needle! It is advisable to visit the clinic several times during the puppy’s first few months with you. Each time you come in, your puppy will meet different animals, different people and get used to the smell of the clinic. Each time you come to the clinic, ask our reception staff for a new experience. This can be having their teeth, eyes or ears looked at (if there is a nurse available), being weighed, meeting new animals and new people. The more your puppy experiences at this young age, the less worrying this will be later in life. Your clinic nurse can discuss this with you at any time over the phone or in the clinic.

Adult (1 – 7 years of age)

During the adult stage of a dog’s life, there is no noticeable change. It is important that an active lifestyle is maintained. If he or she continues to use their muscle mass and burn the calories they will remain healthier longer and not become over-weight. Additional body fat can be detrimental to dogs but can be reduced (as in humans) by diet alteration and increase in exercise. A puppy food is no longer required, instead a standard adult diet, providing less calories than the puppy version should be fed. Animals that are prone to weight gain may require a lower calorie version of this food. See diet information sheet for more details on feeding for adult dogs. Regular annual booster vaccination should be kept up to date. We send out letters to remind you when your next booster vaccination is due. (see vaccination information)

Mature Adult / Senior (more than 7 years of age)

As with the senior citizens of our human world, it is just as important to remember our canine senior citizens need a little extra assistance in certain areas so they can continue to feel forever young. We group together mature adult and senior dog for two reasons, the first being that dogs of different breeds have slightly different life expectancies, for example, a 7 year old Great Dane is considered senior but a Yorkshire Terrier is considered to be a mature adult at the same age. Secondly, the life-stage considerations are similar for the two groups. As animals get older, their nutritional requirements once again change, their metabolism slows down and as their organs get older, they need different levels of nutrients to keep them healthy longer. Once again, there are many senior pet foods available which will allow your dog to get the correct level of nutrients for his or her age. This can also be provided in a slightly lower calorie version for animals prone to weight gain. (see diet information page).

It is common place for people to comment that their dog is showing a certain behaviour alteration or other change and simply put it down to age, assuming that there is nothing that can be done. The field of medical science has been, in recent years investigating how “old age problems” can be eased for senior citizens using nutritional supplements, medication and diet alteration. The results have been astounding and the Veterinary world is now using these advances to increase the quality of life for our senior dogs. Mobility issues, senility, gastrointestinal problems and many more changes in the senior dog can all be eased to increase the quality of life for your dog. Please call your local clinic and ask for a senior pet health check. Even if your pet is well, it is advisable to attend your clinic for a senior pet health check two or three times a year. This will enable us to perform regular health checks and pick up potential problems earlier. As old age problems tend to be progressive, early diagnosis is key to the continuing high quality of life for your dog. It will also allow any treatment to be easier & more successful.

IF YOU HAVE ANY FURTHER QUESTIONS REGARDING THE CHANGING REQUIREMENTS FOR YOUR DOG THROUGHOUT THEIR LIFE, PLEASE CALL YOUR LOCAL GREENWOOD VETERINARY CLINIC FOR FURTHER

Choosing a Puppy

Before you start

There are certain things that you need to consider before choosing your puppy:

• Does everyone in the household want a dog?
• Do you have the time to provide adequate exercise, walks and play?
• Are you able to groom your dog as regularly as it will require?
• Do you have time to fully train and socialise your puppy throughout it’s life? Remember you are legally responsible for your dog’s behaviour
• Can you afford the vets bills for annual vaccination and routine preventative healthcare well as pet insurance to cover any unexpected additional costs (accident or illness)
• Do you regularly holiday, if so would you like you dog to have a passport to travel with you, or would you prefer to use a local boarding kennels or home sitting service?
• What are your future plans? Remember your dog will be with you for 15 years or more

What puppy should I choose?

Choosing a breed (or crossbreed!)

The type of puppy that is right for you depends entirely on two main factors

1. Your lifestyle, amount of spare time and size of the living space you will share with your dog
2. The breed type, for example a terrier will behave entirely differently to a guarding dog, a toy dog, a giant dog or herding dog

There are many books magazines and websites devoted to information on the different breeds of dog and how they will differ from others. Solid research into the breed you choose will save you from any surprises when you have already committed yourself. Remember there are many breed rescue societies as well as dog re-homing centres that have many dogs in need of families. These centres will not only be able to give you advice on the generic characteristics of the breed, but also the individual personalities of the dogs, which can be extremely valuable. Breed information and a list of reputable breeders can be found at www.the-kennel-club.org.uk or a list of breed rescue and re-homing centres can be found at www.dogpages.org.uk

Choosing a dog

Once you have done your research, spoken to the relevant parties and made your decision, the following is advisable:

• Take the dog away from the kennel/home environment for a short while (out for a walk for example). Have a little play and familiarise yourself with him/her. See how he/she reacts when they are away from the familiar environment
• Find out personal information about the dog, food that he/she eats, toys he/she likes to play with, general daily routine. This will allow you to change things slowly and ease the puppy into a new life with minimal stress
• Find out the full veterinary history. Any vaccinations, worming, illnesses, operations. Ensure you have official record of any vaccines given and the contact details of any veterinary surgeon that has provided veterinary care
• You should have a written agreement stating you are taking the dog subject to a full veterinary inspection within 72 hours of purchase
• Look at the puppy. A healthy puppy will have a shiny coat, bright eyes and is eager to play. Avoid listless puppies who are potbellied and unwilling to play through lack of energy or who are overly nervous
• You may be getting breed prone congenital or inherited problems (like hip dysplasia). Ensure you ask about any relevant tests that have been performed on the parents. Reputable breeders will generally freely offer this information

Choosing a Name!

This can be a difficult task if there are many family members each having their own ideas. You may wish to have met your new puppy before picking his/her name to get a name that will suit. Others prefer to have the name ready and waiting. You may like to have some inspiration, so visit www.cat-dog-names.com For a little help!

Taking your Dog Home

It is nice when you take your dog to his/her new home if they can take a familiar smell with them. A few days before collecting your puppy, take a blanket to place in the puppies bed. When you take him/her home, transfer the blanket to the new bed, allowing them to feel at home.

If the routine you intend to implement is different to that of the breeder/re-homing centre, change one thing at a time so you do not overwhelm. Provide plenty of toys to chew. While chewing is a perfectly natural pastime for puppies, it is important to encourage appropriate chewing behaviour (toys and chews NOT shoes and hands!).

A draught free corner of the kitchen is the best place for your puppy’s bed. Kitchens are warm rooms with washable floors and a good place to sleep. Remember not to allow anyone to pull your puppy out of his/her bed to play as they need plenty of time to sleep as they grow and adjust to family life.

Make sure you have food and water bowls ready and in the correct place. Have your correct grooming equipment so you can implement routines soon after settling in. You may also wish to start regular teeth cleaning, to prevent dental problems later in life. Bringing these routines in at the puppy stage will mean that the puppy will grow up expecting them to happen and can even become a regular game, allowing close and strong bonding for life.

A Final Note

With careful planning, your new puppy should settle into the home environment with ease. If you have any concerns, further questions or wish to book in for your puppy health check. Please call your local Greenwood Veterinary Clinic.

Canine Parasite Control

Parasites

From time to time all pets are exposed to fleas, worms and other parasites from which they may become infested. Whilst the effects of infestation are often unpleasant they are mostly easily treated and in many cases preventable with regular use of parasiticides.

Fleas

Fleas are the most common parasite found in animals with fur. They are easily transferable and often breed indoors in carpets and furniture. They can also bite humans. The most effective method of controlling fleas is using a superior veterinary recomennded treatment, applied to the skin on the back of the neck. This can be easily used to quickly and effectively remove fleas, and used monthly, can prevent further outbreaks. To eradicate fleas from the home, we recommend spraying Indorex. This will kill any fleas, eggs or larvae which exist in carpets or furniture particularly after fleas have been detected on your pet. Vacuuming is also vital for killing all the life stages as this will stimulate the very resistant pupa stage to hatch. The adult flea that emerges will then be killed by the Indorex.

Ticks

Ticks are becoming more prevalent now than in the past. With more animals travelling abroad, and the environmental changes of recent years, we are seeing a slight increase in tick-borne diseases, which can be serious. Dogs who regularly visit areas where they can pick up ticks, or who travel abroad can now be given a superior veterinary recomennded treatment, applied to the skin on the back of the neck. Tick treatments of the past, relied on the tick attaching and then being killed by the treatment. This treatment has a “hot foot” affect on the tick which prevents it from ever attaching to your dog.

Mites

Our recommended flea treatment is also effective against Demodex mites, Sarcoptic mites (the cause of “fox mange”) and ear mites.

Worms

There are two major types of worms affecting animals in this country; roundworms and tapeworms.

Roundworms - Control of roundworms is essential as their larvae can very occasionally cause problems in humans. Roundworms are thin white worms up to 10 centimetres long and can be passed in the faeces or in some advanced cases in vomit. It is very common for puppies to be born with a burden of roundworms. These are passed to the puppy from the dam during pregnancy through the placenta and through the milk once the pups are born. We advise giving a veterinary recommended roundwormer which is available in the form of sachets or paste to treat your puppy. Each treatment requires dosing daily for 3 days. This should be done once per month until 12 weeks old. After this, an application of a single dose of our veterinary recommended flea treatment per month will ASLO prevent an infestation of roundworms!!. This should continue throughout the animal’s life. This treatment is new to the market and is highly effective, we advise you to be aware of some spot-on treatments sold in supermarkets etc. Some of these treatments do not kill roundworms and some are relatively ineffective and not always as safe.

Tapeworms – These worms are usually seen quite easily and appear as small white maggot-like, or dried up segments around the animal’s anus, often looking like small grains of rice. The common tapeworm is spread by fleas so regular flea treatment will prevent this. However, dogs that hunt, scavenge or eat raw meat may pick up tapeworms and need specific worming from time to time.

Your Greenwood Veterinary Clinic Veterinary Surgeon or Nurse, can provide you with further advice or information and can develop a specific regime to suit your individual dog.

Feline Neutering

Neutering is the term used to refer to the removal of an animal’s reproductive parts. This term is non gender specific.

Females

The removal of the female reproductive organs in mammals is referred to as an ovariohysterectomy (“ovario” refers to the ovaries and “hyst” refers to the uterus (womb), “ectomy” is the general term used for “removal of”). More commonly this is referred to as a “spey”. We recommend the speying of all female cats, not required for breeding purposes. The procedure can be carried out in any cat over five months of age. If your cat has had a litter, we recommend speying her when her kittens are 8-9 weeks old, as many female cats become pregnant again whilst nursing kittens. Speying a cat is a relatively simple procedure providing it is done at the right time and there are a number of reasons why speying is beneficial:

• Female cats who are not speyed will come into season and will “call” for a mate. This cycle repeats, often every three weeks until they are mated. While they are in season, they can urine “mark” the house and attract local tom cats to your garden
• Female cats can have up to three litters a year. This can be exhausting for her and she can become emaciated and weak. This also inevitably produces a number of unwanted kittens
• Cats can suffer from sexually transmitted viruses such as FIV (Feline AIDS) and Feline Leukaemia Virus. Both of these viruses are serious and can often be fatal

The operation can be carried out in a single day. Your cat will have a full health check before general anaesthesia; will have pain relief and antibiotic cover after the procedure and will also have a post operative check.

Males

Surgical removal of the testicles is referred to as castration. This is recommended in male cats once they reach sexual maturity (around 5-6 months of age) for a number of reasons:

• Uncastrated male cats have the desire to fight other male cats for territory dominance. Cat bites can be nasty and regularly form abscesses, leaving your cat very battle scarred
• Cats can suffer from sexually transmitted viruses such as Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (Feline AIDS) and Feline Leukaemia Virus. These viruses can also be contracted by direct blood to blood contact (in fights) and both are serious and can often be fatal
• Uncastrated male cats have a natural roaming instinct and will travel for miles to find a mate. This instinct increases the likelihood of them being involved in road traffic accidents and you may hardly ever see them
• Male cats have male hormones in their urine which creates a potent odour. It is natural for male cats to “mark” their territory with this urine and this means your male cat will be spraying in your house and garden
• A reduction in un-castrated male cats will decrease the number of unwanted kittens

Cat castration can be carried out in a single day. Your cat will have a full health check before general anaesthesia; will have pain relief and antibiotic cover after the procedure and will also have a post operative check. If you have any further questions regarding these procedures, or the general anaesthesia used for cat neutering. Please ask a member of our staff.

Feline Diet

The following information sheet is to provide you with basic information on the changing nutritional needs for kittens, pregnant and lactating female cats, adult cats before and after neutering, mature adult and senior cats. For further information on feline nutrition, please call your local Greenwood Veterinary Clinic.

Feline Nutrition

The pet food industry has been developing at an enormous rate since the introduction of feline specific diets in the early 1980s. In that time, millions of pounds have been invested in the production of complete cat foods. At Greenwood Veterinary Clinic, our members of staff are trained in the life-stage diets provided by Hill’s Pet Nutrition. Hill’s is one of the world leaders in Veterinary Nutrition and provide several diets to cater for not only healthy animals through each stage of heir life, but for animals requiring specialised nutritional care in times of illness or injury. A good food provided for healthy animals, throughout their lives is called Hill’s Science Plan and is sold in all Greenwood Veterinary Clinic reception areas.

Life Stage Nutrition

Kittens

Mirroring the work done with canine foods, the pet industry has tailored their research in recent years into the production of life-stage diets for cats. In the first year of life, kittens grow at an enormous rate and require more energy to sustain the growth while maintaining good bodily condition. Hill’s Science Plan Kitten food is specially designed to provide the correct balance of calories, vitamins and minerals.

A dry food is better for cats to eat to prevent dental disease later in life. However, wet food can also be beneficial to cats as some tend to shy away from drinking and the added moisture can prevent a tendency to develop urinary infections. Many people choose to feed a combination of wet and dry food to allow for both of these things. Hill’s Science Plan Kitten is available in dry kibbles and wet food both as meat food, provided in cans and meaty chunks in gravy provided in sachets.

Canned and sachet foods can contain up to 85% water and therefore cats that are fed a wet diet can remain well hydrated while drinking very little. However, all cats should be provided with an unlimited water supply at all times. Being naturally fussy animals, you may find that your kitten likes water supplied differently. Some like to drink running water and prefer to drink from a drinking fountain, others will only drink fresh water out of a bowl and others will only drink from ponds and puddles. It is important to remember that cats are generally lactose intolerant and should not be given cows milk. Specialist cat milks are on the market which have a reduced lactose levels and are specifically designed for people to give to cats if so required.

Cats usually will develop habits during kitten hood that remain with them for the rest of their lives, so implementing a balanced and healthy diet at a young age will allow your cat to remain healthy throughout their lives.

Pregnancy

During pregnancy, queens have an ever changing nutritional requirement. As soon as the pregnancy is diagnosed, your cat should be eating a kitten food. The daily calorie requirement increases as the pregnancy develops and, unlike dogs, cats are usually excellent at deciding how much food they need. The provision of dry food will allow you to feed an unrestricted amount and your cat will do the rest. Some cats can be a little more greedy than others, so your veterinary or nursing staff can provide you with a feeding guide if you wish to ensure your cat is getting the correct calorie intake. This should continue until parturition (birth).

Once the kittens are born, the queen’s calorie requirement will still be high, supporting her body AND providing for her fast growing litter of kittens. During this time, she should still be eating the kitten food, but she should now be provided with unrestricted amounts of food. Only when the kittens are weaned and no longer feeding from the queen, should a normal feeding regime re-commence. (PLEASE NOTE: Kittens will continue to suckle, even when weaned for as long as they are allowed. In turn, the queen will continue producing milk until the stimulation of suckling kittens has stopped. This is where you may have to intervene and separate mum and kittens)

Adult

Once cats reach 1 year of age, they have completed their growth. The additional calories that had been previously provided for the rapidly growing body will no longer be required. Your fully grown cat is now ready to move on to an adult diet. The feeding of your cat at this stage will mirror the regime you instigated when he or she was a kitten so the transition should be smooth. However, it is recommended that any diet change is carried out over a period of 7 days to prevent any physical or non compliance issues. Basically you are tricking him or her into thinking that you’re not REALLY changing the food!

Science Plan Feline Adult food has one of the largest selections in the range. There are 4 flavours of dry food, two flavours of canned food and three flavours of sachet food that you can choose from. This will enable you to provide your cat with variety they like, or find the one food that they wouldn’t be without. It is advisable to regularly check your cat’s bodyweight and body condition to ensure they are not gradually gaining weight. If at any point they do start to gain weight, double checking the daily feeding amount is recommended.

The nursing teams at all of our clinics will be able to advise you on the correct amount to feed your cat. The amount or type of adult food you feed your cat depends on several factors:

• Lifestyle It is common sense that the more calories you (or your cat) uses, the more calories they need to consume. If you have a very active, hunting cat, or a cat scales six foot fences in a single bound you will have to monitor his or her body condition to ensure they are taking in enough calories
• Metabolic rate Cats, like humans, all have different metabolic rates and it may be that your cat gains weight a little more easily. If this is the case, Science Plan have also provides an Adult Light food. This has less variety but it is by far the better option over having to go through a weight loss regeime later in life
• Neutering It is not a well known fact that neutering an animal will change his or her metabolic rate. It is important to monitor their feeding after the procedure with a view, if necessary to moving to the Adult Light food

Mature Adult (Senior)

As your cat reaches 7 years, he or she may be considered mature adult or senior. The feeding regime of both of these groups is different again from that of an adult cat. It goes without saying that older cats will not exercise at the rate of a young adult, but also as the body begins to age, the metabolic rate begins a natural slow decline. This does mean that he or she will require less calories but the SOURCE of the calories is also a factor.

Protein levels in senior cat diets are slightly reduced. This prevents excessive intake which, in turn prevents related illnesses previously seen in older animals more commonly. Other nutrients and supplements are added to senior cat foods that allow your cat to remain physically as young as possible for as long as possible. We have learned from research by human nutrition experts that incorrect diet can reduce life expectancy, as well as increasing risk of weight related problems and can cause “normal” age related problems to occur at a far younger age.

As part of our commitment to caring for your cat throughout his or her life, we recommend feeding which will enable your time together to be as long and as happy as it can possibly be. If you wish to discuss any aspect of your cat’s diet, please call your local Greenwood Veterinary Clinic. Further information about Hill’s Diet foods can be found at www.hillspet.com

Feline Vaccination

At Greenwood Veterinary Clinic, we strongly believe in preventative treatment and advise you to regularly vaccinate your pet. A single cat vaccination inoculates your cat against several diseases including cat flu and enteritis.Additional vaccinations are available for Feline leukaemia virus (which can be administered in the same injection) and Rabies. If you require further information on any of these diseases, please call your local Greenwood Veterinary Clinic.

Kittens are usually vaccinated at 9 and 12 weeks, but it can be done later. This, along with yearly booster injections will immunise your pet against major viruses and infections contracted from coming into contact with other cats. Kittens should be kept indoors, away from unvaccinated pets until one week after the second injection. Contact with vaccinated cats has a reduced risk.

For advice and information about vaccinating your pet please speak to your local Greenwood Veterinary Clinic.

Dental Disease in Cats

Dental Disease is a frequently seen ailment by veterinary surgeons and can be found in cats, to a certain degree from the age of 2 years. The main dental problems seen are periodontal disease (mouth infection), gingivitis (inflammation of the gum) or resorptive lesions (areas of damaged enamel, eventually exposing tooth roots and nerves).

What are the symptoms?

There are many symptoms of potential dental disease including the following:

• Reduced interest in food
• Visible difficulty chewing
• Dropping food from the mouth
• Approaching the food bowl, then not eating from it
• Dribbling
• Pawing at the mouth
• Halitosis (bad breath)
• Head shaking

What causes dental disease?

As with humans, the cause of feline dental disease is a build up of plaque. As the plaque builds up on the teeth of your cat, it becomes mineralised and to form tartar (also called calculus). Tartar is brown in colour and is normally seen at the point where the tooth meets the gum. This accumulation of tartar causes bacteria and food to stick to the surface, causing an unpleasant odour. This also leads to infection and gingivitis. If this continues, untreated then periodontal disease is the next stage. This is where the gum and tooth root ligaments become infected and are destroyed; causing the tooth to move, then eventually fall out. Infected sockets can also create abscesses.

Is it treatable?

Tartar formulation and resultant gingivitis can be treated. We use an ultrasonic descaler (the same as your dentist does to clean your teeth) to crack the tartar and cause it to come away from the tooth. We then smooth off the tooth surface by polishing to prevent further immediate build up of tartar. The only difference for animals is that they have to have a general anaesthetic for this procedure.

What should I do if my cat has signs of dental problems?

If you see any symptoms of mouth discomfort, you should take your cat to your local clinic for a dental check. After an examination, your veterinary surgeon can determine the best course of treatment. If caught early, it is not always necessary to have your cats teeth cleaned under general anaesthesia. The rate of tartar build up is very individual among cats and you may find, if your cat is particularly prone to tartar development, that you may have to have dental treatment done on more than one occasion.

What can I do to prevent dental disease in my cat?

The main way to prevent dental disease in your cat is to prevent tartar development. Diet is a very important factor, chewing tough foods stimulates large amounts of saliva, which is naturally antibacterial. Also the mechanical action of chewing through hard foods scratches the plaque away so it cannot form tartar. Any dry diet is better than the wet foods that leave a residue on the teeth. Brushing the teeth is by far the most effective method of dental treatment but encouraging your cat to sit for this can be time consuming and slow.

Human toothpaste should NEVER be used on a cat. Not only do cats hate the taste, but the high levels of fluoride are very damaging to their teeth. Special toothpaste for cats can be easily purchased from numerous sources.

Caring for your cat

Kitten (0-1 year) / New Cat

Whether you are considering bringing a new Kitten into your family, or introducing an older cat into your home environment, there are a lot of things to think about. We pride ourselves on our preventive healthcare programme; trying to avoid problems before they start.

Settling In

When your kitten first gets home, he or she may be daunted by the new surroundings. Try not to change too many things all at the same time; it is advisable to change the diet slowly (if required) over a period of 7 days to prevent an upset stomach. It is important to remember that kittens should not be allowed out until 1 week after the second vaccination. In most cases, people prefer not to let their kitten out until after neutering. This prevents conflict with larger cats in the neighbourhood when they are too small to fight back. Also it irradicates the risk of unwanted pregnancy.

Cats are very clean animals. If they are not being allowed outside to urinate and defecate, they need to be provided with a litter tray. Multi-cat households should be advised that there should be a litter tray provided for each cat in the house PLUS one spare. Kittens can be fussy about the type or amount of litter that is used so it may be worth trying different things to see which is best for your cat.

On entering a new home, kittens can become a little stressed. The house does not have their scent in and this may cause upset. Pheromone sprays and electrical diffusers are available to ease this period of worry and any of our nursing staff will be able to advise you on the best use of these products.

Fleas and Worms

Kittens are susceptible to internal and external parasites and need to have adequate treatment protection. See Parasite Information Sheet for details of this.

Nutrition

In this stage of life, your cat will be growing rapidly. It is important to get the balance of feeding right to provide enough energy for growth, while not over feeding and causing a predisposition for obesity later in life. This is expanded on the diet information sheet.

Vet Visits

When you bring your kitten to the Veterinary Clinic, the Veterinary Surgeon will carry out a full health check. This can be done at the same time as the first vaccination, or separately (see vaccination information sheet for details of vaccination protocols). It can be a lot nicer for the kitten if the first experience at the Veterinary clinic does not include a needle!

Adult (1 – 7 years of age)

During the adult stage of a cat’s life, there is no noticeable change. It is important that an active lifestyle is maintained. If he or she continues to use their muscle mass and burn the calories they will remain healthier longer and not become over-weight. Additional body fat can be detrimental to cats but can be reduced (as in humans) by diet alteration and increase in exercise. A kitten food is no longer required, instead a standard adult diet, providing less calories than the kitten version should be fed. Animals that are prone to weight gain may require a lower calorie version of this food. See diet information sheet for more details on feeding for adult cats. Regular annual booster vaccination should be kept up to date. We send out letters to remind you when your next booster vaccination is due. (see vaccination information)

Mature Adult / Senior (more than 7 years of age)

As with the senior citizens of our human world, it is just as important to remember our canine senior citizens need a little extra assistance in certain areas so they can continue to feel forever young. We group together mature adult and senior cat as the life-stage considerations are similar for the two groups. As animals get older, their nutritional requirements once again change, their metabolism slows down and as their organs get older, they need different levels of nutrients to keep them healthy longer. Once again, there are many senior pet foods available which will allow your cat to get the correct level of nutrients for his or her age. This can also be provided in a slightly lower calorie version for animals prone to weight gain. (see diet information page)

It is common place for people to comment that their cat is showing a certain behaviour alteration or other change and simply put it down to age, assuming that there is nothing that can be done. The field of medical science has been, in recent years investigating how “old age problems” can be eased for senior citizens using nutritional supplements, medication and diet alteration. The results have been astounding and the veterinary world is now using these advances to increase the quality of life for our senior cats. Mobility issues, senility, gastrointestinal problems and many more changes in the senior cat can all be eased to increase the quality of life for your cat. Please call your local clinic and ask for a senior pet health check.

Even if your pet is well, it is advisable to attend your clinic for a senior pet health check two or three times a year. This will enable us to perform regular health checks and pick up potential problems earlier. As old age problems tend to be progressive, early diagnosis is key to the continuing high quality of life for your cat. It will also allow any treatment to be easier & more successful.

IF YOU HAVE ANY FURTHER QUESTIONS REGARDING THE CHANGING REQUIREMENTS FOR YOUR CAT THROUGHOUT THEIR LIFE, PLEASE CALL YOUR LOCAL GREENWOOD VETERINARY CLINIC FOR FURTHER DISCUSSION.

Feline Parasite Control

Parasites

From time to time all pets are exposed to fleas, worms and other parasites from which they may become infested. Whilst the effects of infestation are often unpleasant they are mostly easily treated and in many cases preventable with regular use of parasiticides.

Fleas

Fleas are the most common parasite found in animals with fur. They are easily transferable and often breed indoors in carpets and furniture. They can also bite humans. The most effective method of controlling fleas is by using our veterinary recommended flea treatment that is easily applied to the skin at the back of the neck. It can be used to quickly and effectively remove fleas, and used monthly, can prevent further outbreaks. To eradicate fleas from the home, we recommend spraying Indorex. This will kill any fleas, eggs or larvae which exist in carpets or furniture particularly after fleas have been detected on your pet. Vacuuming is also vital for killing all the life stages as this will stimulate the very resistant pupa stage to hatch. The adult flea that emerges will then be killed by the Indorex.

Ticks

Ticks are becoming more prevalent now than in the past. With more animals travelling abroad, and the environmental changes of recent years, we are seeing a slight increase in tick-borne diseases, which can be serious. Cats that get ticks should be treated with a veterinary recommended tick treatment that is available in two forms. One is used by applying to the skin at the back of the neck and the other, to spray the whole coat with. This will kill the tick shortly after attachment and cause it to drop off.

Mites

Our veterinary recommended flea treatment is also effective against Demodex mites, Sarcoptic mites (the cause of “fox mange”) and ear mites, which can cause very irritable, dirty ears in cats.

Worms

There are two major types of worms affecting animals in this country; roundworms and tapeworms.

Roundworms Control of roundworms is essential as their larvae can very occasionally cause problems in humans. Roundworms are thin white worms up to 10 centimetres long and can be passed in the faeces or in some advanced cases in vomit. It is very common for kittens to be born with a burden of roundworms. These are passed to the kitten from the queen during pregnancy through the placenta and through the milk once the kittens are born. We advise giving a veterinary recommended round worming treatment which is available in the form of sachets, paste or a tasty chew to treat your kitten. Each treatment requires dosing daily for 3 days. This should be done once per month until 12 weeks old. After this, an application of a single dose of our veterinary recommended flea treatment per month will also prevent an infestation of roundworms. This should continue throughout the animal’s life. This treatment is new to the market and is highly effective, we advise you to be aware of some spot-on treatments sold in supermarkets etc. Some of these treatments do not kill roundworms and some are relatively ineffective and not always as safe.

Tapeworms These worms are usually seen quite easily and appear as small white maggot-like, or dried up segments around the animal’s anus, often looking like small grains of rice. The common tapeworm is spread by fleas so regular flea treatment will prevent this. However, cats that hunt, scavenge or eat raw meat may pick up tapeworms and need specific worming every 3 months. Your Greenwood Veterinary Clinic Veterinary Surgeon or Nurse, can provide you with further advice or information and can develop a specific regime to suit your individual cat.

Rabbits can suffer from a number of problems that owners should be aware of. These are often preventable, but knowing the early warning signs can be life saving.

Teeth

Rabbits’ teeth grow throughout their life at a rate of 2mm per week. The commonest problem we see in pet rabbits is due to overgrown teeth caused by lack of dietary fibre. Overgrown teeth can cause root abscesses, tongue laceration and tear duct infections. Mild cases may be treatable but severe cases carry a poor prognosis. Trimming the front teeth (incisors) is a fairly simple procedure and can be carried out during a routine veterinary consultation. Overgrown back teeth (molars) are much more complicated and require a general anaesthetic. Some rabbits, especially dwarf breeds are born with misaligned incisors and in these cases, it is generally best to extract all the incisors. It is not generally possible to check your rabbit’s teeth. The signs to look for are:

• Wet fur around the mouth and below the eyes
• Exaggerated chewing movements
• Weight loss
• Anorexia (refusal to eat)

Flystrike

Flystrike is a very distressing condition suffered during the warmer summer months. Flies are attracted to urine and faeces either in your rabbit’s hutch or actually on your rabbit. The warm, moist environment is ideal for them to lay their eggs. When the eggs hatch, the maggots feed on the nearest food source – the rabbit. As they feed, they produce toxins which can be painful and cause your rabbit to go into shock. Ultimately, this condition is often fatal.

Although unhealthy, elderly and overweight rabbits are more prone to this condition, any rabbit can be affected. There are however, a number of very effective ways you can prevent flystrike.

• Allow your rabbit to have as much living space as possible. This will allow them to get plenty of exercise and remain slim, also it will stop them from sitting in urine or faeces soiled bedding, where they can also pick up the maggots
• Correct feeding will prevent diarrhoea and maintain a slim rabbit. Overweight rabbits cannot bend far enough around to groom themselves and this can lead to soiling
• Regular checks will ensure your rabbit remains clean. You can bath your rabbit if needed. It is NOT recommended to use human shampoos or cleaning solutions. Please ask your vet for advice on the best cleaning solution to use
• Daily removal of urine and faeces from the hutch will stop flies from being attracted to the area. Regular cleaning of the hutch should also prevent this
• There are products available to help repel flies to prevent them laying eggs on your rabbit. Please ask your Veterinary Surgeon for more details on these products

Signs to look out for as symptoms of flystrike are:

• Twitching of fur
• Turning to rear end to scratch or bite
• Presence of maggots
• Dirty bottom, contaminated with faeces or urine

If you have any queries about the health of your rabbit, please call your local Greenwood Veterinary Clinic.

Rabbit Neutering

Neutering is the term used to refer to the removal of an animal’s reproductive parts. This term is non gender specific.

Female (Doe)

The removal of the female reproductive organs in mammals is referred to as an ovariohysterectomy (“ovario” refers to the ovaries and “hyst” refers to the uterus (womb), “ectomy” is the general term used for “removal of”). More commonly this is referred to as a “spey”. In female rabbits, speying is recommended for two specific reasons:

Breeding: Most people have used the term “breeding like rabbits” and it is widely known that rabbits breed extremely quickly. In the wild this high number of kits is necessary for continuation of the species, due to the large number that are preyed upon. In the domestic situation this should be prevented to avoid unwanted kits being born. By speying a female rabbit, you remove the ability to reproduce when you remove the uterus but removal of the ovaries also prevents the release of the female hormones and therefore take away the ingrained desire to mate as well.

Health: A common cause of death in female rabbits is a cancer of the uterus called adenocarcinoma. Over 80% of unspeyed females over the age of 6 years develop this form of cancer. It is a malignant cancer, meaning it can easily spread to other parts of the body. Speying your rabbit will prevent this. There is also a possibility of the doe developing mammary (breast) tumours later in life which can also be life threatening. The removal of the ovaries (during speying) dramatically reduces the incidence of this.

Male (Buck)

Surgical removal of the testicles is referred to as “castration”. This is recommended in male rabbits once they reach sexual maturity for three reasons.

Breeding: As with the does, when we castrate bucks, we remove the source of the hormone that creates the desire to mate. As the testicles release both the hormones to stimulate mating AND the sperm to facilitate mating, castration will also remove the ability to reproduce altogether.

Aggression: Some male rabbits can develop aggressive behaviour once they reach sexual maturity, particularly dwarf breeds. These male rabbits will attack other rabbits, or animals that they live with, causing serious bite wounds which can even develop into abscesses.

Urine: Due to the presence of the male hormones, the buck’s urine will develop a very strong and unpleasant odour. This is an atmospheric problem for house rabbits, as they tend to spray their urine to scent mark (and not just in their litter trays!). In outdoor living rabbits, this is less of an issue, but reduced grooming can cause a stained and messy tail area, attracting unwanted attention from flies (particularly in the summer months) and the risk of maggot infestation.

For further information on neutering you rabbit or to book an appointment, please call your local Greenwood Veterinary Clinic.

Rabbit Diet

Incorrect nutrition is the NUMBER ONE cause of health problems seen in domestic rabbits today. The solution is to implement a healthy balanced feeding system, educate rabbit owners and encourage prevention of these unnecessary problems for the next generation of rabbits.

So how do we work out what a rabbit should eat?

To understand the way we should feed a domestic rabbit, we need to look the wild rabbit population and study the way that the rabbit’s mouth has evolved. In the wild, the rabbits eat the vegetation that other herbivores leave behind. The bulk of their diet is made up of old, tough grasses that grow just above soil level. These grasses are very high in dietary fibre. The rabbit has evolved to be perfectly adapted to cope with this food in the following ways:

So what should you feed your rabbit?

• HAY The food we can provide rabbits that is closest to their natural food source is hay. Hay should be provided in unlimited amounts and should ideally make up 30-50% of your rabbits daily feed. Any source of hay is acceptable but a good general rule is the tougher the better. Remember, the more time the rabbit spends chewing on the hay, the better it is for him or her. Hay can be ideally provided in a hay rack. This allows your rabbit to pull the hay through the rack as needed and stops it from getting trampled or soiled. Hay is also high in vitamin D which is vital for you rabbit to be able to absorb the maximum amount of calcium from the diet.
• FRESH FOOD As hay is basically dried grass, it has naturally lost a certain amount of vitamins by the time it has been eaten. This natural gap should be filled by fresh fruits and vegetables. The rule to follow with fresh food is “darker green is better” generally speaking, darker greens have a higher levels of nutrients. Good vegetables to provide are: Spinach, dandelions, green peppers, kale, celery, parsley and the old favourite CARROTS! Fruits can also be provided such as apple, pear and melon for additional variety.
• PROPRIETORY RABBIT FOOD This food should make up the smallest percentage of the daily food ration and should ideally only be fed once a day. Rabbits have a sweet tooth and if given the choice will go for the worst option every time (like many humans!). Because of this it is important to give them a little of what they like but balance it out well. Ideally rabbit “mix” foods should be avoided. There is no denying that these foods do contain adequate nutritional value IF the whole diet is fed. There is the danger that your rabbit will not eat the whole mix, but pick out their favourite bits and wait for a refill! A company called Burgess Supafeeds, make a diet called Supa Rabbit. This diet has taken all the nutrients required of a proprietary rabbit food and made every kibble the same. This means that there can be no deficiency because one type of flake was left behind. For those slightly more “portly” rabbits out there, Burgess have also created Supa Rabbit Lite to aid in weight loss (when used in conjunction with the above recommended feeding regieme).
• TREATS Everybody deserves a treat every now and then, some things that your bunny may enjoy as a treat are small amounts (about 1 tablespoons worth) of: Strawberries, raspberries, peach, blueberries, pineapple or tomato. Dried fruit can also be given but only half the amount. Try them. Your bunny will thank you!
• SUPPLIMENTATION Good quality, well balanced diets rarely need vitamin or mineral supplementation. However, on occasion, it is necessary to help out the digestive system by adding in vitamins, minerals or probiotics (good bacteria for the gut).
• WHAT ELSE? Chew toys can help rabbit’s teeth and stop them from overgrowing. Branches from fruit trees are ideal.

What should I avoid?

• Sugary treats such as honey laced pet shop treats should be kept to an absolute minimum. Remember those sweet teeth and how they will fill up on these rather than eat what is good for them.
• Bread and bananas are commonly given to rabbits but these can be addictive and fattening and should be avoided. There are some garden plants that should be avoided as they are harmful to rabbits. These include: Ivy, Elder, Iris, Woody Nightshade, Holly, Buttercups, Foxglove and Clematis.

If you are unsure about whether any plant is suitable for your rabbit to eat, or if you require any further information on feeding your rabbit, please call your local Greenwood Veterinary Clinic for further advice.

Rabbit Housing and Exercise

Providing your rabbit with a safe and secure place to live in is one of the most important things you can do as a rabbit owner.

Hutches

Your rabbit’s hutch should be raised off the ground slightly, this allows air to circulate round the hutch and prevents dampness from affecting the wood. The roof of the hutch should also be waterproof and many shop bought runs come with a roofing felt cover attached. Security is vital to protect your rabbit. Hutches that have twist locks should be fitted with bolts to prevent the door of the hutch falling open. A sense of security is also important for your rabbit, you can offer this by providing one area flooded with daylight and another area that is dark for he or she to hide in if threatened or scared. The flooring of your rabbit’s hutch should be smooth, rough flooring such as wire can cause sores on your rabbit’s feet. But even smoother flooring can be uncomfortable if enough bedding is not provided. Thick layers of soft bedding such as straw or sawdust will provide ample protection for your rabbit’s feet. (NB. Hay should not be used as bedding as it should be provided as the bulk foodstuff of your rabbits diet – see feeding information sheet for details).

An example of the described rabbit hutch log cabin hutch The size of your rabbits housing is also very important. Rabbits naturally require the ability to stretch and exercise to keep them fit and healthy. In these hutches, your rabbit should be able to move across the hutch by taking more than one hop and they should be able to stand straight, without crouching. He or she should be able to stretch out and lie down, separate to any area in which they may have soiled with urine or faeces. Food and water should be provided in the lit up area and away from areas that are soiled. Fitting a litter tray in the area your rabbit prefers to soil will ease the cleaning process. Hutches such as the one shown above are ideal for rabbits that have an additional run in which to exercise in the day.

Exercise Runs

Areas for your rabbit to exercise are, these days varied in design and can be extremely elaborate. Your rabbit’s area to exercise should be large enough to allow total free range of movement, including the ability to hop, run and stand vertically on their hind legs. The area of living space should be positioned in an area that will get some daylight and some shade. Your rabbit MUST be able to get out of the hot sun if he or she desires. REMEMBER, this will change as they day progresses and from season to season. Rabbits natural behaviour is to dig and care should be taken to ensure your run is secure for your rabbit. You must always ensure that your rabbit has access to fresh water in the run, but they will graze on the fresh grass for food. Shop bought runs can come in many shapes and sizes.

These often, however, require you carrying your rabbit from hutch to run and this is not ideal and may not be appropriate for your lifestyle. A better style is a run and hutch in combination. This can provide plenty of grazing and exercise space for your rabbit in the daytime, along with shelter and protection when it’s required. It will also (as they have the hutch ABOVE the run) save space and allow as bigger living space as possible for your rabbit. You can even build an enclosed, safe area in your garden, in which your rabbit can live. You can be as imaginative as you like!

Cleanliness and hygiene

A large amount of the problems we see with rabbits can be contributed to poor hygiene. It is vital to remember that soiled areas should be cleaned on a DAILY basis. As stated above, the addition of a litter tray in your rabbit’s hutch will make this much easier, but you can use newspaper to line that specific area and remove the papered section daily. Old fresh food should be removed from the hutch, but hay and proprietary rabbit diets can be added to. You should check your rabbit daily to ensure that there is no urine staining or saturation and no faeces stuck to his or her back end. Good hygiene will deter flies and prevent them from laying eggs on your rabbit, causing maggot infestation. This is commonly known as “flystrike”. (See General rabbit information for further information on flystrike).

Exercise

As with humans, rabbits benefit enormously from regular exercise. The prevention of weight gain and obesity is one main medical reason, but in addition to this, unfit and cramped rabbits suffer spinal pain and generally become bad tempered. Rabbits can be excellent companion animals for all ages and exercising in the company of humans makes them happy bunnies! Remember that rabbits – being naturally prey animals do not always like to be picked up and cuddled, but adore interaction on a less physical basis. Finding the game that your rabbit and you can play together will bond you together for life.

Rabbit Vaccination

There are two main infectious diseases that are commonly seen in domestic rabbits:- Myxomatosis and Viral Haemorrhagic Disease (VHD). Fortunately vaccinations have been developed to prevent both of these diseases.

• Myxomatosis is a viral disease caused by the myxoma virus (part of the pox virus group). It is transmitted through the wild and domestic rabbit population via biting parasites (fleas, mites and midges). This transmission route makes Myxomatosis spread rapidly and in the past has been almost impossible to control. The virus attacks the rabbit’s natural immune system and skin. Commonly the symptoms are swelling around the eyes, base of the ears and genitals, refusal to eat (anorexia) and lethargy. In more than 95% of cases, rabbits die within 14 days. The vaccination for this virus can be given from 8 weeks of age and should be repeated at least annually. In rural areas, or areas with a high wild rabbit population, the vaccination should be repeated every 6 months.
• VHD (Viral Haemorrhagic Disease) is a virus of the respiratory system. It can be spread through the air (in the same way that humans can catch the common cold). The virus is extremely aggressive and vaccination is highly recommended because once contracted it can cause death within 24 hours. Vaccination for this virus is available from 12 weeks of age and should be repeated annually.

PLEASE NOTE: If you choose to vaccinate your rabbit against both of these viruses, please prepare for two visits to the clinic, as the two injections should be separated by at least two weeks.

Providing the best health care for your pet can be an expensive business; even young pets are capable of having nasty accidents, or catching infections that make them very sick. In the last 10 to 15 years the type of care we can provide has become much more sophisticated. A large proportion of ill pets can be saved, but the costs tend to be larger.

The simplest way to peace of mind is to take out a pet insurance policy. These policies will pay you back most of the fees resulting from accidents or illness. You will probably have to pay an excess charge, but the insurance company will reimburse the remainder of the fees. Some animals can also accumulate high fees over a long period of time. A good example of this would be an allergic skin disease which needs long-term management to control the symptoms as the condition is not curable. Most top level insurance policies will cover these on-going treatments to a large extent. We recommend the insurance policies that give lifelong cover although they are not necessarily the cheapest. Beware of some cheaper policies from supermarkets and over-the-phone companies, which cease paying after one year’s illness.

Points to remember when choosing an insurance company:

1. Check that the insurance company you choose covers your pet for life. (Some do not insure the animal after 10 years of age)
2. Check that you are covered for life for ongoing conditions. (Some cease after one year)
3. Check whether dental treatment is covered
4. Check whether you are covered for pre-operative blood tests for routine procedures

The placement of microchips in animals has been common place for several years. It involves a small microchip (the size of a cooked grain of rice) to be implanted under the skin, in the natural groove between the animals shoulder blades.

Placement of the microchip is simple and can be done during a routine consultation. The microchip is presented in a pre-sterilised package, which, once removed, is fitted to an applicator. The veterinary surgeon or nurse implants the microchip by injection in one quick movement. Once implanted, the microchip will remain in the animal to provide a permanent means of identification. When scanned, the “chip” will emit a number of up to 15 digits which specifically relates to your pet.

When the microchip is placed, a form will be filled in for you to provide the identification centre with all of your contact details. This will allow them to reach you if your animal is found stray, to re-unite you as fast as possible.

This is by far the most superior method of identification available, being easily placed and completely permanent. If you have any further questions regarding microchipping, or to book an appointment, please call your local Greenwood Veterinary Clinic.

The Procedure

Euthanasia is performed in the kindest way possible to every animal in all situations. The procedure requires that we give an injection into a vein in the body, usually the largest vein of the foreleg. The area is usually clipped first to visualise the vein clearly. The injection that we use is a very potent barbiturate anaesthetic. Barbiturates are used commonly in procedures when an anaesthetic is required. Therefore, all we are doing is giving them a massive overdose, causing their heart to stop and their breathing to cease. The injection action is very rapid, usually causing unconsciousness in seconds, rapidly followed by cardiac and respiratory failure. Animals who are distressed can sometimes be given a sedative injection first, or local anaesthetic on the leg to ease the process, if this is required, though this usually draws the process out for the owner.

Cremation Options

At Greenwood Veterinary Clinic, we have used the same cremation company, Willowhaven, for many years. We trust completely that they take every care to deal with the cremation of your pet in the best way possible. There are four options open to you after the death of your pet:

• Home burial
• Standard Cremation
• Individual Cremation
• Professional Burial

Willowhaven also offer a range of memorial plaques. For further details on any of these options, please call your clinic, or visit the willowhaven website at www.willowhaven.co.uk

Counselling

The death of your pet can be distressing for your whole family. We at the clinic can offer support to a point, but the Blue Cross offer professional pet bereavement counselling. This service is commonly used and can be for any level of grief after the death of a pet, this is not something that necessarily need be shrugged off without consideration. This service can be used for adults, as well as specific advice on support for children during this time.

• Leaflets for this service are available at your clinic
• You can phone the support line on 0800 096 6606
• Or visit the website at www.bluecross.org.uk

The Pet Travel Scheme (PETS) has been put in place to allow you to bring your pet dog or cat into the UK from certain countries without quarantine. This page will summarise the requirements, and to give some extra information regarding travel with your pet. For more detailed information ring the P.E.T.S helpline 0870 241 1710 (800am -6pm Mon-Fri) or visit the DEFRA website.

Basic requirements

• Your pet must be fitted with a microchip which meets the ISO specifications (any microchips fitted at Greenwood Veterinary Clinic do)
• Your pet must be vaccinated against rabies (at over 12 weeks old). A 3 week waiting period is then necessary before any travel is possible
• An EU PETS passport is issued by a Local Veterinary Inspector. This passport will allow your pet to enter most other EU countries and to move between EU member states

These are the requirements for entering the UK from all EU member states and some other ‘listed’ countries. It is always wise to check specific requirements though as every country is free to set it's own import requirements. The DEFRA website and helpline is the best place for this information.

It is recommended that your pet is re-vaccinated against rabies within the required time interval (ie. before the ‘valid until’ date in section IV of the EU pet passport). Currently Greenwood Veterinary Clinic are using a vaccination that lasts 3 years, other vaccines may differ. We endeavour to send you a reminder in good time, but it remains your responsibility to bring your pet for his or her vaccine in time. If the vaccination date is missed, the 3 week waiting period before travel must be observed again.

To guard against the introduction into the UK of certain potentially dangerous parasites (fox tapeworm specifically) you must have your pet treated against them 24–120 hours (1–5 days) before re-entering the UK by a veterinary surgeon. This is a significant relaxation of the previous rules (24–48 hours), but the timing is still very important to get right, as it is likely to be enforced very strictly. If you are considering a day trip, this means you need to have your pet treated before you leave. It would be sensible to locate a Veterinary Surgeon at the port from which you will be returning to the UK, who is able to supply the necessary anti-parasitic treatments and sign your passport accordingly.

You must re-enter the UK on an approved route and, if returning by air from a long-haul country, your pet must travel in a container bearing an official seal. For further details, including lists of air, sea and rail companies contact details please telephone the PETS help-line or consult the DEFRA website.

Exotic diseases

The PETS passport scheme only exists to protect the UK against rabies and Fox tapeworm.

There are a number of diseases and parasites present outside the UK which could cause infection in your pet. You may wish to take precautions against these serious and potentially fatal diseases and the information below should help.

Leishmaniasis is causes by a tiny parasite which is transmitted by sandfiles. It can infect dogs and people and very rarely cats. Sandflies are present in Europe, the Middle-East and many tropical countries. They are only active between sunset and dawn and between May and September/October. Dispite their name, sandflies do not live on the beach, but are found in rural areas, or wooded parts of towns such as gardens or parks. To protect your pet, keep him/her indoors during the evening and night from May to October. Sandfly bites can be minimised by using a special anti-parasitic preparation (eg. Scalibor or Advantix). Please ask at reception for more details.

Dirofilariasis (Heartworm Disease) is caused by a parasitic worm, which is transmitted my mosquitoes. It can affect dogs, cats and ferrets. Infections occur in hot countries including Spain and France. Infection can be prevented by treating your pet before, during and after travel with a product called Advocate which kills the larvae once in the blood stream. Advantix also can repel mosquitoes, and general precautions against mosquito bites are also sensible.

Ehrlichiosis is caused by a bacterium which is spread by certain ticks and is present in north Africa and several European countries. It can affect dogs, cats, horses and people. The anti-parasitic precparations Frontline or Advantix can be used to help prevent ticks.

Babesiosis is caused by a tiny parasite and is also spread by ticks. It can infect cattle and other mammals including dogs and cats. It is found in Europe and especially southern France.

All animals should be regularly inspected for ticks, particularly after walks, and these should be removed as quickly as possible to prevent the infection being transmitted. This applies even if using an anti-parasite preparation which kills ticks, as these take several days to do so, during which time the infection could be spread.

Insurance for animals travelling

Accidents and ill health can occur while you are away. Please check with your pet’s insurance company what cover is available for foreign vet’s fees or for example for repatriation costs.

Useful links

• Defra (for P.E.T.S info)
• Airpets (for travel kennels)
• Pet travel insurance